Calabria

Calabria, the toe of Italy, is even more mountainous than its neighbours, with most of the agriculture located towards the littoral. Inland this is rugged country of forests and mountains and the region is home to (and often under the influence of) the N’draghetta, a crime syndicate more fearsome than the Mafia. Wine was never especially commercially important here, with other agricultural products (notably tomatoes) driving the local economy. Covering less than 2% of agricultural land, the vineyard area has shrunk by over a third in the last 20 years as the market for bulk wine has decreased and the province now accounts for just over half a percent of national production. Although it feels like there is potential here, few wines are seen outside of their locality, the only exception being Cirò, which has real character and a deserved small export presence. Indeed, the region is home to 12 DOC titles, but is currently without any DOCGs.

Among the lesser known DOCs, six are grouped between Pollino and Lamezia, in the western regions around the Crati River Valley. Verbicaro, in the mountains, and Terre di Cosenza DOC are perhaps the sources of hope for Calabrian wine. Others, Bivongi, Melissa and the tiny S.Anna di Isola di Capo, have a distinct domestic focus. Gaglioppo and Greco Nero are the star red varieties, with the Sicilian varieties Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio becoming increasingly popular as their potential is slowly understood. For whites, Greco Bianco, Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca are most pominent, with a little Ansonica as well. Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon lead the plantings for commercial wines.